Beauty Of BD

Travel guide

Sylhet

সিলেট · Sylhet district, Sylhet Division

Clear Piain river waterThe country's only freshwater swamp forestSada Pathor at the foot of MeghalayaMalnicherra tea gardenShah Jalal's shrine

Suggested plan

Jaflong in a day

  1. Stop at Sreepur tea garden on the way
  2. Piain river at Zero Point, Indian hills ahead৳10
  3. Mayabi Jhorna — monsoon only৳100
  4. Shah Paran mazar on the way back

Take the direct Sylhet–Jaflong bus, then an auto to Zero Point and a local boat to Mayabi Jhorna. — ৳100-150

Two days: swamp forest and Sada Pathor

  1. Day one: Malnicherra tea garden
  2. Ratargul by boat into the forest৳750-865 (per trip)Entry: ৳57.5 (per person)
  3. Day two: Sada Pathor, Bholaganj৳800 (per trip)
  4. Evening at Shah Jalal's shrine

Reserve a CNG from Amborkhana for the whole day — Ratargul, Sada Pathor, Malnicherra and the shrine together. — ৳1,400-1,600

An evening in the city

  1. Shah Jalal's shrine
  2. Bhorta and rice at Panch Bhai
  3. Keane Bridge and Ali Amjad's Clock

Get around the city by rickshaw or on foot.

Getting there

Fares and prices change — confirm before travelling.

Dhaka → Sylhet non-AC bus

Dhaka (Sayedabad) → Sylhet

Buses from familiar operators including Hanif run this route for Tk 550-800 per person; buy at Sayedabad.

৳550-800

Dhaka → Sylhet AC bus

Dhaka → Sylhet

AC coaches including Green Line run the route for Tk 900-1,500 — more legroom and comfort at a higher fare.

৳900-1,500

Tip: Green Line costs a little more but is comparatively comfortable.

Dhaka → Sylhet train (Shovan chair)

Dhaka (Kamalapur) → Sylhet

Shovan chair on the Jayantika, Upoban, Parabat and Kalni Express costs Tk 375-410.

৳375-410

Tip: Tickets open 10 days ahead at 8 am on the Rail Sheba app or Bangladesh Railway's site; one ID can book up to four.

Dhaka → Sylhet train (Snigdha)

Dhaka (Kamalapur) → Sylhet

Snigdha AC chair costs Tk 719-788; it costs more than Shovan, so book early.

৳719-788

Tip: Book the return ticket at the same time; tickets are hard to get at the last minute.

Sylhet → Jaflong bus

Sylhet (Subhanighat/Somonighat) → Jaflong

The direct bus costs Tk 100-150 and takes about 1.5-2 hours; counter and gate-lock buses charge differently.

৳100-150

Tip: Tell the driver early if you want to get off at Sreepur tea garden, or you will be taken further.

Sylhet → Jaflong full-day CNG

Sylhet → Tamabil/Jaflong/Lalakhal

A full-day reserve costs Tk 2,000-3,500; a bigger group brings the per-head cost down. Jaflong, Tamabil and Lalakhal can be covered together.

৳2,000-3,500

Tip: Agree the fare before setting off; it rises in season.

Amborkhana → Ratargul and Sada Pathor (full-day CNG)

Sylhet (Amborkhana) → Ratargul → Sada Pathor

A full-day reserve costs Tk 1,400-1,600 and covers Ratargul, Sada Pathor, Malnicherra and the shrine together.

৳1,400-1,600

Tip: In season the ask can reach Tk 2,000 — bargain.

Ratargul dinghi boat

Ratargul Motorghat → inside the forest

A dinghi for five or six costs Tk 750-865 and takes one to one and a half hours through the forest.

৳750-865 (per trip)

Tip: Buy the ticket at the market in front of Motorghat; boats go by serial.

Bholaganj → Sada Pathor boat

Bholaganj 10 Number Ghat → Sada Pathor

The boat is Tk 800; with eight aboard it is Tk 100 each. One or two people can also reserve the whole boat.

৳800 (per trip)

Tip: Keep the boatman's number for the return trip.

Jaflong → Mayabi Jhorna boat

Jaflong → Mayabi Jhorna

The local boat costs Tk 100 per person and carries about 10-16 people.

৳100

Tip: The ticket is checked on the return leg, not on boarding — keep it.

Places to visit

Tea garden and misty hills in the Jaflong area

Jaflong Zero Point

About 55-65 km from Sylhet city. Zero Point has the clear Piain river, India's Khasi and Jaintia hills ahead, and a stone bed below the stairs where visitors gather.

Good to know: A rope marks the border — do not cross. A sign warns that crossing is a punishable offence.

Mayabi Jhorna

Beside Jaflong. The flow is good in the monsoon but the falls are nearly dry in winter and the off-season, when there is little to see.

Good to know: Do not expect a waterfall in the dry season — go in the monsoon.

Ratargul swamp forest — trees standing in green water

Ratargul Swamp Forest

The country's only recognised freshwater swamp forest, 20-24 km from the city. For four to seven months in the monsoon most of the trees stay underwater; many call it the Amazon of Bengal.

Entry: ৳57.5 (per person)

Photo of Sada Pathor (Bholaganj)

Sada Pathor, Bholaganj

At Companiganj, clear cold water runs over white and mixed-colour stones at the foot of the Meghalaya hills; the current strengthens in the monsoon.

Good to know: The stones are slippery — walk carefully. Non-swimmers should stay out of the deep water.

Photo of Bisnakandi (Bichnakandi)

Bisnakandi

A bed of stones at Rustompur in Gowainghat, 39 km and 1.5-2 hours from the city; the last stretch runs by motorbike along the hills.

Malnicherra tea garden

Four km from the city, described as the subcontinent's first and largest tea garden; sources disagree on the founding year, 1849 or 1854.

Lalakhal

Reached by boat from Shari Ghat. In November-December the low water turns the river blue; if you are fewer than 8-10 people, share a boat with another group.

Photo of Hazrat Shah Jalal Dargah

Hazrat Shah Jalal Dargah

In the middle of the city, the shrine of the 14th-century Sufi saint Hazrat Shah Jalal — one of the country's major religious sites.

Shah Paran Mazar

Seven km from the city, Shah Paran's shrine — Shah Jalal's nephew and one of the 360 auliya — stands on a hillock.

Good to know: Photography and video are not allowed at the shrine — respect the rule.

Sreepur tea garden

On small hills beside the Sylhet-Jaflong highway and a good place to watch Meghalaya's clouds in the monsoon. Tell the driver early, then walk to the far end of the garden.

Food

  • Pansi restaurant

    ৳50-60

    A well-known breakfast stop near Humayun Chattar and the station: khichuri, parota, vegetables and special tea. Breakfast is Tk 50-60 per person.

  • Panch Bhai restaurant

    ৳200-360

    About 30 kinds of bhorta; rice, chicken jhal fry, bhorta and greens came to Tk 360 for two, and Tk 200 also fills you up.

  • Jaflong market hotel

    ৳100

    A budget lunch at the hotel beside Jaflong market costs Tk 100; there is also a place to change out of wet clothes.

Where to stay

Dargah Gate, Lalabazar and Amborkhana

Dargah Gate and Lalabazar have decent rooms for Tk 500-1,000, with mazar-side hotels starting around Tk 700-800. Amborkhana even has rooms at Tk 300 per person. Hotel Hilltown, Gulshan, Dorga Gate, Surma and Kaikobad are familiar names.

৳300-2,000
  • Phone ahead for the room and AC rates, then check reviews before booking.
  • Around Dargah Gate there are both expensive and low-budget hotels — see the room first.

Good to know

  • The stones at Sada Pathor are slippery — walk carefully. Do not go into the deep current; non-swimmers should stay out of the deep water.
  • A rope marks the border at Jaflong Zero Point — crossing it violates the boundary. Staff do not let visitors through; the far side is India.
  • Agree prices before you start. At Jaflong there are reports of syndicates spoiling visitors' trips.
  • Photography and video are not allowed at Shah Paran's shrine — respect the rule.

Fares and prices change — confirm before travelling.

Tips

  • Dhaka-Sylhet train tickets open 10 days ahead at 8 am on the Rail Sheba app or Bangladesh Railway's site; one ID can book up to four.
  • Buy the Dhaka return bus ticket ahead from the Dargah Gate counters; good seats are scarce on holidays.
  • Leave Jaflong before evening — local buses become hard to find late in the day. Gate-lock and local vehicles run in Jaflong bazar until about 7:30-8 pm.
  • The Mayabi Jhorna ticket is checked on the return leg, not on boarding — keep it.
  • In one day, pick no more than two of Jaflong, Sada Pathor, Lalakhal and Ratargul; the near-city shrines and tea gardens take little time.
  • Ask the bus driver to drop you at Sreepur tea garden or you will be taken further; walk five minutes to the far end of the garden.
  • The sunglasses shops at Jaflong Zero Point share one owner — always bargain.
  • See Mayabi Jhorna in the monsoon; see Lalakhal's blue water in November-December.

Updated: October 19, 2026

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